KTI Off Road

Neutral Safety Switch repair – or how to save $200 in 4h

September 23rd, 2007 Author: Kornik

Recently our Cherokee (XJ) started to develop problem with back up lights – they worked erratically, then stopped to work at all. Two months later problems with starting showed up – sometimes I had to move the lever to N position to make starter working. Diagnose: dying neutral safety switch. Pretty common problem for AW4 transmissions – both mounted in Jeep as well as those in Volvo. Fortunately most of the time you can easily fix it without spending $200 on new one or scarifying backup light feature or having to start your car in N position.

When you crawl beneath your Jeep on the passenger side you will see something like this:

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Not a pretty look uh? Now using 12 mm wrench unbolt the upper locking bolt. Then using flat screw driver straighten out locking tabs and unbolt (should be hand tight only) the bigger (lower) one. Then carefully pry off the locking washer, disconnect plug (located in the engine compartment next to the transmission oil level dip stick) and take the whole thing out.

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First clean it out a little bit

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unscrew six bolts holding the cover

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and carefully pry it off. The whole switch is assembled from three parts. Cover:

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moving finger and metal body:

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Now clean very carefully all finger parts (springs, copper tabs and finger itself). As you may see on those pictures in my case it was covered in dried out grease blocking it from moving:

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Here is how it should look like

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Now lets go to the most important part. In the plastic cover there are some copper slide rails on which the tabs in finger goes. As you may see here they are very worn out in the reverse area:

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Lucky us – it’s not that hard to fix. All you need is some 600 grit water sand paper and piece of flat surface. I used some 1/4″ steel plate lying around in the garage. Mount it in the vise and water it a little bit.

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Then file the switch cover

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till everything is even and shiny

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Now using a little bit of dielectric grease put it all back together.

Some small hints for the installation – using fish wire helps a lot with pulling wires back to the engine compartment.

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After checking switch operation lock it in place with locking bolt, finger tighten the bigger nut and lock it in place with washer tabs. Here is how it should look like at the end:

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Whole thing took less than 4h and required 12 mm wrench plus flat and philips screw driver – nice and easy way to save some $200 :-)

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6 Comments »

  1. larry harrington says

    how do u get that lock nut back on it was hard enough to pry off?

    November 19th, 2008 | #

  2. Kornik says

    From what I remember the upper nut (12 mm) is regular one and there is no problem with unbolting it using normal socket. The lower, big nut is hand tight, but is kept in place by a locking tab of a washer under it. You have to pry off the tabs using flat screwdriver, it’s easy, just take your time.

    Ah, and cleaning it a little beforehand definitely helps to see things better.

    November 19th, 2008 | #

  3. Ben says

    I’m not positive, but I think what Larry is referring to is the threaded bolt-type shaft that has the rectangular post coming through it from the tyranny. Mine was nearly impossible to pry off. Now that I have it off, my new NSS will not fit on the little post (I bought a new part instead of repairing the old one). Now I have no idea what to do. I tried lightly tapping it on with a hammer and got it about halfway on, but then no further. Then it was 20 mins of prying to get it back off. Short of using a metal file to ground down the inside of the new part to make it fit, I don’t know what to do.

    February 23rd, 2009 | #

  4. Jeff Senten says

    I had a hard time prying off the NSS. I ended up putting the the “Big Nut” back on with a couple of turn and wedge my flathead screwdriver just under the big nut and pried off the NSS. Thanks for this article this helped me a lot.

    March 15th, 2009 | #

  5. Fred H says

    Ditto on Jeffs comment Put the big nut back on half way then pry on the nut off the trans body the big nut only has to be half off to acheive the goal here.
    Nice write up helped tons . :smile: thanx kornik You the man.

    August 2nd, 2009 | #

  6. STEVE-O says

    Just wanted to say thanks. The DIY worked like a charm! I haven’t had reverse lights for years…then my XJ finally wouldn’t start at all. Its almost criminal the parts store charges so much for the NSS, they should hand you a bag with a toothbrush, phillips screwdriver, dielectric grease, and brake cleaner. That’s really all you need.

    July 6th, 2010 | #

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